![]() ![]() Adding a part to your list is as easy as clicking a button and you don't have to stop at just one - multiple project lists can be made so you can check off every box you need along the path to Factory Stock or Restomod. ![]() Project lists are an easy way to save, budget and plan your project. Need help planning your project? We know that your project is a huge undertaking that requires meticulous planning down to the last nut and bolt. When it comes to the exterior we have you covered from emblems, exterior moldings, weather-stripping, window glass, grilles, bumpers and the finest quality body panels and sheet metal in the industry. We have a complete selection of restoration and performance parts, including original style interior seat covers, door panels, carpeting, dash pads, and all of the trim necessary for your restoration. Good luck and post photos of your finished project.Thank you for visiting Eckler's, the leading site for Restoration and Restomod Parts and Accessories! You'll find our site is a one-stop shop for everything you need to restore or upgrade your Tri-Five Chevy. A bad ribbon wire can be the source of a lot of problems. Be very gentle with it and if you find one, probably in a salvage yard, buy it. The plastic covering becomes brittle over time. They are very hard to find for a 64 to 66. What condition is the ribbon wire in? That's the flat series of wires bundled together that runs from the back, through the fender well, out of an inspection panel behind the driver and under the seat to the fuse box. Even if you only replace the fuse box now it worth while. I almost went cross-eyed and blind trying to follow the black and white version in the manual. It's a good investment and at just $19.00 at the El Camino Store how can you go wrong. However, if you are going to replace just the fuse box, I would invest in a laminated color version of the wiring diagram. With the look of the fuse holder connections (very rusty) it makes me wonder what the other end of those wires that go to a lot of important stuff looks like. It sounds like you have already made up your mind but respectfully, if you are replacing just the fuse box and not the entire dash harness you are missing a great opportunity to have a good look around at the rest of the dash wiring and truly see what's going on with the car and you may be able to avoid future problems. I have a 64 and replacing the dash harmess was one of my first projects. ![]() ![]() In fact, you can use your pics here that you took for reference too. At least you don't have to trace the wires back on a newer car.tons more wires and stuff to get confused over.hope this helped you out in some way.others will put their experience and helpfulness here too. etc.), positions that their in and all the curves, indentions that the box has, then draw a pic of the back of the box doing the same thing especially like the wires.for example on yours: back of box> starting from bottom> black(lable it #1) and on the box itself at that position were you would cut it mark #1, then red(lable it #2).so on and so forth for the rest of the wires, oh, when you do the back of the box, (viewing from the front) turn it to the left or right and note that you turned it in a specific way so you don't get confused when you compare your pictures (front and back) that you've drawn. once you have that done get a blank note/pad/book/binder and draw the picture of your fusebox (front) as accurate as you can noting all the fuses (amps,etc),names(backup, tail inst. have your manual handy (for what its worth), follow the wires back (the best you can) from the fuse box to its origin and then make sure its origin is whats named on the fuse box (if you want to go that far for verification). Many-a-times when I was learning and quite frankly I still do this to this day. I can see by you having 2 posts that you are very new to here and may be young and not very knowledgeable about your 64 and your scared you don't want to screw anything up.no disrespect at all and we all started off this way. ![]()
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